Semana Santa Concluded: Part 3 - San Sebastian aka The Pintxo Palace

San Sebastian: April 19-21

So after 7 hours traveling by bus to San Sebastian I arrived around 3PM and immediately set off exploring after checking into the hostel. I had done some research previously and I knew there would be plenty to see. The town is quite beautiful and definitely has a quaint feel to it. You can walk across the town in about half an hour no problem. The walk down from the bus stop is lined with colorful trees and the views from the bridges lining the river are nice as well.

Arrival

Once I was in the main part of town I strolled around for a bit just taking in the sights. The town is very cool and pretty much embodies a beach town as ¨The Conch¨ beach is a big attraction nestled between two peaks. This means that there is plenty of seafood to go around. I was pretty hungry so I didn't look for any place in particular. I just stepped inside one that wasn't too busy and gave the menu a stare down. I opted for the Roski, described as:

a bocata sandwich

with

hamburguesa

queso

vegetal

and of course mayo.

They put mayo on pretty much everything here

I thought the sandwich was pretty darn good. In the food taste scale I invented shortly after eating it I gave it a 8 out of 10. As my inaugural meal in San Sebastian it did not disappoint in the slightest. After that I had replenished the energy stores and felt it would be criminal not to climb up the peak that was looking right at me. The first of the two peaks overlooks the main part of town containing all of the bars and whatnot. I didn't realize how steep the climb was but it definitely provides some nice views along the way.

Once at the top, I found that there were already a large group of tourists/locals gathered around taking photos so I figured I was in a good spot. There were some trees blocking some vantage points but there were plenty of places to snag a good photo. I did my best to push the others aside (not really) and get a good panorama. I feel like tourists hate on each other sometimes because I saw one guy taking selfies with his girlfriend and they looked quite ridiculous to the average passer by and they were laughing at another guy with the big camera and lens taking what seemed to be a bajillion picture panoramic. Maybe that was it, this guy's camera must have taken about 100 snaps to get this panorama. Lots of clicking noises. Either way it was a nice first place to visit.

After pausing for a few pictures I went up to the top of the small mountain to see the statue sitting atop it. There was a tiny chapel and a grand carving peering over the town. It was difficult to get a good picture because of the angle but you have to respect the architecture here.

After the climb it was time to grab dinner and I definitely had my pick of the litter food wise. I went searching for a little while but I got to the feeding grounds right around rush hour and if you hadn't had time to adjust to how they do things in San Sebastian it may be difficult to get a word in. Beside the fact that here they simply throw the napkins on the floor when you're done, it is very difficult at times to get close enough to the bar to order. These bars aren't the biggest places in the world so fill up quick and then you're on the outside looking in. I found this was the case for several of the places so I went back to the place I went for lunch to slow things down and get some favorites of mine.

Dinner was a wonderful helping of brava and tortilla 

I kept it simple for the first night, but I vowed to expand my eating parameters the next day. I knew that I had plenty of time to taste the fare and the ice cream of course. There was ice cream a plenty and I definitely enjoyed that feature.

I finished the day with some of the aforementioned and pictured ice cream, it's hard to resist when there are shops on pretty much every corner, and returned to the hostel satisfied and really in need of sleep. It was a long day but I thoroughly enjoyed it.

The next day, Sunday, I wanted to get the most out of it so I woke up early and decided that after breakfast at 9 I would walk to the 2nd of the two small mountains to get more good picture and work off some of the calories from the previous day.

Along the way to the second mountain

The base of the mount Igueldo

After a nice morning trip across the town I decided against taking the tram up to the top of the mountain. I was about 10AM and I figured two hours of time to climb and come back would get me to the bars in time for lunch. I didn't know how windy the roads were or how long it would take but sometimes you just gotta go. I'm glad I did too because there are some views you can only get by walking up the side and back of the mountain. Plus it's a good bit of cardio to start the day off right before you ruin it later with pintxos and ice cream. Maybe that's just me but I highly doubt it.

Was not expecting to see a slug of this size

I thought it was really cool though

After climbing for about 45 minutes at a leisurely pace, I reached the entrance. I didn't realize that the people that took the tram up would be wondering how I got up there but I feel like I absolved myself of the 2,20 euro fee by walking up the side. The scenic route on this mountain is much much more strenuous that the tram ride. 

The entrance

Now that I had reached the top, next stop was pictures. Of course! I didn't come all this way to not take pictures. I think in the end some of my shots were just as snazzy as the postcards I saw in town. The views were gorgeous though. On an overcast day it turned about to be perfect as the temperature wasn't to hot on the climb and the sun was blinding you as you tried to get a nice picture. Being a little higher up than the other mountain was cool as well, as it makes for even better panoramas. 

San Sebastian in the AM

After the picture sesh I was feeling extra fitnessy and decided I'm hike back down the mountain as well. I was really thinking about the future meals I would incur on my body and was doing it a favor. There are some really fancy looking buildings in SS and apparently there is a plot of land near the city center that is home to some of the most expensive real estate in all of Spain. This I did not know, but from the look of some of the architecture around town you can tell that there was a higher than average level of detail work put in.

LET THERE BE LUNCH:

The moment I had been waiting for had finally arrived. It was time to try out some of the best Pinxtos SS has to offer.

The first stop was to a place that has gained acclaim for a particular tortilla and apparently people line up for this little egg frittata. The first day I was in town I got to the bar at 1:07, they make this thing only twice a day at 1 and 8, and it was gone by then. So on this day I was not going to miss out. I got to the bar early and waited a little while, even put my name on a list, just to get a slice. When it finally came I was hoping for a life changing culinary experience but in the end it was just alright I think. I mean it was really good but I probably wouldn't stand in line for it. And that's not to knock the food here in any way, in fact I learned that all the food here is so good it's hard to go wrong.

A little beer while I waited

Next up was a place of high acclaim that I read about on a foodie blog, and the main attraction here is a skewer with shrimp and a special sauce. I got in line to order one of these, called brocheta, and whilst doing so I spotted a gem on the counter. There was a piece of chorizo wrapped in bacon and I thought nothing of it as I came for the brocheta but boy was I in for a treat.

brocheta

heaven aka chorizo con bacon

I took a bit of the shrimp skewer and it was fantastic. I quickly ate the entire thing because as you can see it is quite small. For only 2 euro though its a steal. Then came the chorizo. It is already one of my favorite ideas simply because it contain two of my favorite meats, but when I took a bite from the middle of this thing my taste buds sung out in glorious harmony. Yes it was that good. The tastes came together oh so nicely and I'm surprised I limited myself to just one. The journey through the Pinxto Palace could not stop here.

The next stop was conveniently right next door and the specialty at this place was the solomillo (sirloin). At this point though I was so convinced of the quality of food around the place that I really didn't need any convincing to get the specials. The food is just that good. I tried the solomillo and it was surprising good, in the sense that sometimes people don't cook the meat all the way through even in really nice restaurants around the world (ahem France). This thought was perfectly cooked and with a side of bread and patatas fritas I was a tasty little addition. 

I had to stop after that and appreciate the food I had just eaten. Plus it was time for ice cream, duh! Me getting an ice cream after dinner or lunch became a bit of a tradition during the two days I spent here. There were ice cream parlors on most every street and they all had a different style and prices. I wanted to try out as many as I could because you can get a mini scoop for less than a euro, making it easy to try many places and flavors.

After I grabbed some dessert I walked around for a little bit and enjoyed the atmosphere around the town. With the rain gone people were out and about enjoying the fresh post rain environment where everything seems a bit more crisp. I strolled around a little longer taking in the sights before returning to the hostel to update the blog a little bit and then grab a nap before I went back out later for dinner. 

I liked the hostel I was staying at, Urban House, the staff was cool and I often hear complaints from travelers that there need to be more common spaces to promote interaction but the lounge in this place was cool and I didn't have any complaints. After a brief hour long nap I got up and with a few hours to kill before dinner time I decided to head back out and explore the town a little bit. The town if divided by a bridge that leads to the old town but I didn't get to check that out. I did walk along the beach a little and explore some of the neighboring shops and monuments.

DINNER TIME:

Dinner time was upon me and I was ready for another selection of fantastic dishes. Again there were so many choices but I had a few places in mind to try out since people I talked to mentioned them being at the top of their favorites list. Even one local I met she always goes back to a place called ATARI so I had to check it out if not just for the awesome name. 

Dinner provided a similar feel as lunch with a bustling atmosphere and people all around the bars, but by now I had learned how to get by the crowds and get my order in no problem. I started off at Atari and ordered some croquetas because, well, croquetas. I mean come on they're amazing and probably the dish I'll be making most when I return home. I got four of them for 4 euro I believe and I probably should have only gotten two because they were just ok at ATARI. They were good but maybe it just wasn't their specialty. The next place I went to I got to experience béchamel for the first time and it is really good. I had no idea what to expect but the shrimp dish I had was up there for tops during the trip.

Other pinxtos on the counter

Didn't have room to try these. Next time

After leaving the last stop on the dinner train I went out for a stroll with freshly scooped ice cream in hand. There are few feelings so good as a really good meal paired up with a stress free stroll into the sunset. The sun was going down and what looked to be a wonderful sunset was in the making down by the pier so I followed the crowd and got my camera ready. The other tourists definitely had the same idea as people were all along the railing overlooking the beach. I found a good spot a little behind the crowed so I could enjoy my ice cream in peace and get a higher vantage point. The colors changed as the sun completed its arc in the sky and the end results were fantastic. I'll never get over how cool the sky looks during a sunset or sunrise. It's like a big rack of paint cans is balancing in the sky and depending on who knows what, some of those cans spill and dash the sky with amazing colors we are all compelled to stop and stare at.

A fitting end to a great day

A little earlier in the evening

I have to say that the north of Spain was a decision I definitely do not regret making. I already want to return and try the pinxtos I missed or bocadillos that looked so delicious. Most of all though, I like the feeling of being relaxed and in a town where the going is easy and the food is top notch. I think a place like San Sebastian would be a really nice retirement spot. If only a clone existed in the states, but retirement is a ways away for me so for now I'll just appreciate that clear skies and culinary experience that SS provided for me. A fantastic getaway I must say and an experience I'll not soon forget.